Some beers arrive with names that intrigue before the first sip is even taken. Bête Noire, French for 'black beast,' suggests something difficult, perhaps even unwelcome. A nuisance. A challenge. Something to be endured rather than enjoyed.
Yet the reality, as brewed by Kelham Island Brewery, is quite the opposite.
A Name with Teeth
The phrase bête noire carries weight. It speaks of irritation, of something persistently troublesome, a personal adversary. It’s an unusual choice for a beer name, particularly one accompanied by a unicorn on the pump clip, a creature more often associated with lightness and myth than menace.
Perhaps the name reflects the brewing process itself, an ale that proved difficult to perfect. Or perhaps it’s simply a piece of playful contradiction, a nod to the long tradition of evocative, sometimes ironic naming in British brewing.
Whatever the intention, the beer that emerges is far removed from anything troublesome.
A Dark Ale with a Gentle Nature
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Pouring deep black with a smooth, creamy head, Bête Noire immediately signals richness. But where some dark ales lean toward heaviness or intensity, this one moves in a different direction, rounded, soft, and surprisingly approachable.
The aroma is where it begins to distinguish itself. There is something almost nostalgic about it: a sweetness that recalls an old-fashioned sweet shop. Notes of Parma violets, bonfire toffee, butter mints, and warm fudge combine into something both familiar and slightly unexpected.
It is a bouquet that invites curiosity.
Tasting Bête Noire
At 5.5% ABV, this is a beer with presence, but one that carries its strength with ease.
Tasting profile:
- Appearance: Deep black, opaque, with a thick, creamy head
- Aroma: Sweet and nostalgic, Parma violets, toffee, mint, and soft confectionery notes
- Flavour: Rich caramel and roasted malt dominate, with hints of chocolate and a gentle sweetness
- Mouthfeel: Smooth, creamy, and rounded, with a soft body
- Finish: Mildly sweet with a subtle roasted dryness, leaving a lingering warmth
Despite its depth, the beer remains remarkably drinkable. The sweetness is controlled, never cloying, and the roasted elements provide just enough balance to keep the palate refreshed.
Deceptive Strength
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One of the most notable aspects of Bête Noire is how easily it drinks. At 5.5%, it sits above session strength, yet its smoothness and balance make it feel lighter than it is.
This is where the 'black beast' might quietly reveal itself, not in flavour, but in effect. It is a beer that rewards slow appreciation, best enjoyed with a degree of awareness.
Sheffield, Darkness, and Craft
Like many beers from Kelham Island Brewery, Bête Noire reflects something of its environment. Sheffield has long been associated with industry, steel, and craft, qualities that translate naturally into brewing.
There is a precision here, a sense of control. Even in a beer built around richness and sweetness, nothing feels excessive. Everything is measured, considered.
A Beast in Name Only
In the end, Bête Noire is defined by its contradiction.
A name that suggests difficulty.
A pump clip that hints at myth.
A beer that delivers comfort.
It is smooth where it might have been harsh, balanced where it could have been overwhelming, and quietly complex without demanding attention.
Not a black beast to be feared, but one to be savoured.
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